Tripoli (Trablos), 85 kilometers north
of Beirut, has a special character all its own. Thanks to its historical
wealth, relaxed lifestyle and thriving business climate, this is
a city where modern and medieval blend easily into a lively and
hospitable metropolis. Known as the capital of the North, Tripoli
is Lebanon's second largest city.
Forty-five buildings in the city, many
dating from the 14th century, have been registered as historical
sites. Twelve mosques from Mamluke and Ottoman times have survived
along with an equal number of "madrassas" or theological
schools. Secular buildings include the "hammam" or the
bathing-house, which followed the classical pattern of Roman-Byzantine
baths, and the "khan" or caravansary. The souks, together
with the "khans", form an agglomeration of various trades
where tailors, jewelers, perfumers, tanners and soap-makers work
in surroundings that have changed very little over the last 500
years.
Tripoli in History
Habitation of the site of Tripoli goes
back to at least the 14th century B.C., but it wasn't until about
the 9th century B.C. that the Phoenicians established a small trading
station there. Later, under the Persians, it was home to a confederation
of the Phoenician city states of Sidon, Tyre and Arados Island.
Built on the trade and invasion route near the Abu Ali River, Tripoli's
strategic position was enhanced by offshore islands, natural ports
and access to the interior. Under the successors of Alexander the
Great during the Hellenistic period, Tripoli was used as a naval
shipyard. There is also evidence that it enjoyed a period of autonomy
at the end of Seleucid era.
Under Roman rule, starting with the takeover
of the area by Pompey in 64-63 B.C.,the Romans built several monuments
here. The Byzantine city of Tripolis, which by then extended to
the south, was destroyed, along with other Mediterranean coastal
cities, by an earthquake and tidal wave in 551.
The octagonal Fatimid constructionin
the Citadel
After 635, Tripoli became a commercial
and shipbuilding center under the Omayyads. It achieved semi-independence
under the Fatimid Dynasty when it developed into a center of learning.
At the beginning of the 12th century the
Crusaders laid siege to the city, finally entering it in 1109. The
conquest caused extensive destruction, including the burning of
Tripoli's famous library, the Dar il-'ilm, with its thousands of
volumes.
During the Crusaders' 180-year rulethe
city was the capital of the"County of Tripoli". But Crusader
Tripoli fell in 1289 to the victorious Mamluke Sultan Qalaoun, who
ordered the old port city (today Al-Mina) destroyed and a new built
inland near the old castle. It was at this time that numerous religious
and secular buildings were erected, many of which still survive
today.During the long Turkish Ottoman rule (1516 - 1918) Tripoli
retained its prosperity and commercial importance and in these years
more buildings were added to the city's architectural wealth.
Archeological Excavations
Tripoli has not been extensively excavated because
the ancient site lies buried beneath the modern city of Al-Mina.
However, a few accidental finds are now in museums. Excavations
in Al-Mina revealed part of the ancient southern port quay and a
necropolis from the end of the Hellenistic period. A sounding made
in the Crusader castle uncover Late Bronze Age, Iron Age, Roman,
Byzantine and Fatimid remains.
SELECTED SITES OF TRIPOLI
1. The Citadel
The Citadel of Tripoli
Overlooking the city is the imposing Citadel
of Tripoli known as Qal'at Sinjil (Saint Gilles) which has been
renovated and changed many times during its history.Today the castle's
main features are an octagonal Fatimid constructions converted to
a church by the Crusaders, some Crusader structures of the 12th-13th
centuries, a number of 14th century Mamluke additions, as well as
additions made by the Ottomans in the 16th century. The present
state of this huge fortress(140 meters long and 70 meters wide)
is largely the result of extensive restoration work by Mustafa Barbar
Agha, governor of Tripoli at the beginning of the 19th century.
2 - Church of St. John of the Pilgrims Mount
Significant remains of this Crusader church
were found in the Maronite Cemetery of Saint John about 200 meters
south of the Castle on Abu Samra hill There are two joined chapels,
the larger of which has a semi-circular apse. the smaller one, with
a rectangular apse, was reserved for funerary use. The church was
surrounded by a large Crusader cemetery.
3 - The Great Mosque
The Great Mosque
Begun in 1294 and completed in 1315, the
Great Mosque was built on the ruined 12th century Crusader cathedral
of St. Mary of the Tower.
Its large courtyard is surrounded by porticos
and a domed and vaulted prayer hall. Inside, one can still see elements
of Western architecture from the old church, including the northern
entrance and the Lombard style bell tower which was transformed
into the minaret.
The many foundation plaques and decrees
inscribed in the great Mosque and its surrounding madrassas not
only inform us about the building but reveal details of the daily
life of the Mamluke period.
4 - Taynâl Mosque
This important mosque was built in 1336
by Saif ed-Dine Taynâl on the site of a ruined Crusader Carmelite
church. The adjoining domed mausoleum holds the tomb of the founder.
Some elements of the original structure were re-used in the mosque,
for example, the two rows of granite columns with late Roman capitals
which stand in the middle of the first prayer hall. The entrance
of the second prayer hall is a unique example of the architectural
decoration in Tripoli during the Mamluke era.
5 - Al-Muallaq Mosque
The name means "hanging mosque",
possibly because it is on the second floor.This small mosque, built
in the middle of the 16th century, has a plain whitewashed interior
with steps leading down to an attractive courtyard garden.The minaret
is octagonal and unadorned.
6 - Burtasiyat Madrassa-Mosque
The beautiful Burtasiyat Madrassa-Mosque
was built during the first quarter of the 14th century A.D.This
domed structure has a square minaret erected above the entrance
arch and is ornamented with double windows which have black and
white stone arches.The dark stone portal is decorated with stalactites
and the mihrab is covered with an ornate golden mosaic.
Burtasiyat Madrassa-Mosque
7 - Al-Qartâwiyat Madrassa
The madrassa is known for the fine workmanship
of its ceilings decorated with honey-comb patterns and stalactites,
and its elegant façade of alternate black and white facings.
Built during the first quarter of the 14th century A.D., Al-Qartâwiyat
is probably Tripoli's most ornate building and the only one with
a prayer hall covered by an oval dome.
8 - Madrassa al Tuwashiyat
Built during the second half of the 15th
century, this structure and its elaborate mausoleum are constructed
of sandstone in decorative black and white patterns.The portal is
higher than the façade of the building and decorated with
shell motifs embellished by radiating zigzag motif, stalactites
and twisted colonettes.
9 - Khanqash
This unique building in Lebanon was constructed
during the second half of the 15th century to house Muslim mystics
or Sufis. It is designed with an open courtyard and pool. The courtyard
is surrounded by small rooms and a raised platform, or iwan, behind
an arch of alternating black and white stones. The arch is supported
by granite columns.
10 - Hammam 'Izz ed-Dîne
This public bathing-house was given to
the city by its Mam-luke governor 'Izz ed-Dîne Aybak. The
governor, who died in 1298, is buried in a mausoleum beside the
hammam. In building these baths, he used choice remains from the
Crusader church and hospice of Saint James. The front portal is
decorated with an inscribed fragment between two Saint-James shells,
and the inner door is surmounted by the pas-chal lamb. The Hammam
'Izz ed-Dîne was in continual use until recently and it is
now under restoration.
11 - Hammam el-Abed (near Khan es-Saboun)
Tripoli's only functioning hammam is Hammam
el-Abed, probably built at the end of the 17th century. It has the
typical pierced domes of Mamluke and Ottoman era public baths. The
interior, with its cushions, central fountain and traditional fittings,
is a living museum.
12 - Hammam Al Jadid
The interior ofHammam Al Jadid
Built around 1740, and called the "New
Bath", this is by far the largest "hammam" in the
city, although it has not been in operation since the 1970's, its
faded grandeur still stirs the imagination.
13 - Khân Al-Khayyatin
Khan Al Khayyatin
The Khân Al-Khayyatin or Tailors'
Khan, is oneof the oldest in Tripoli, dating to the first half of
the 14th century. It was probably built on the remains of a Byzantine
and Crusader monument in the center of the ancient commercial suburb
which controlled passage over the Abu 'Ali river.Thus, this "khan"
has a different plan than the others in the city. The restored structure
consistsof a long passageway with tall arches on each side and ten
transverse arches. Just at its western entrance stands a granite
column surmounted by a marble Corinthian capital.
14 - Khân Al-Misriyyîn
The Khân Al-Misriyyîn Caravansary
of the Khan Al Khayyatin Egyptians) was probably built in the first
half of the 14th century. The traditional arcaded two-story khan
has an open courtyard with a fountain in the center.
15 - Souk Al-Haraj
A unique sight, this covered 14th century
bazaar has a high vaulted ceiling supported by granite columns which
may have originally been part of Roman or Crusader structures. A
total of 14 granite shafts can be seen along the north, south and
east sides. Today this space is occupied by sellers of floor mats,
pillows and mattresses.
16 - Lions' Tower
While most of the numerous coastal towers
and fortifications which protected Tripoli during Mamluke times
have disappeared or been encroached upon by modern buildings, the
mid-15th century Tower of the Lions is still remarkably preserved.
It was given this name in the 19th century because of the lions
carved in relief that once stood above the entrance. The tower is
actually a fortress two stories high with lofty vaulted ceilings.
the west portal is in the typical Mamluke black and white stone
pattern. From the outside you can see how the builders placed Roman
columns horizontally in the wall reinforcements.
Tripoli Today
Modern Tripoli, which has a population
of about 500,00, is divided into two parts: El-Mina, (the port area
and site of the ancient city) and the town of Tripoli proper. The
Medieval city at the foot of the Crusader castle is where most of
the historical sites are located. Surrounding this is a modern metropolis
which is occupied with commerce, banking and recreation. The area
known as "at-Tall", dominated by an Ottoman clock tower
(built in 1901/2) in the heart of downtown Tripoli, is the transportation
center and terminus for most taxi routes.
When shopping in the old souks or downtown
area, remember that gold is a good buy. Other popular items are
Tripoli's famous sweets and traditional olive-oil based soap, water
pipes and brass work. Al Mina, the port area, is a good place to
find sea food restaurants and fish markets. The city's most comfortable
hotels and Western-style restaurants can be found in the beach resorts
south of the city.
Tripoli International Fair
Tripoli has a permanent fairground designed
by the famous brazilian architect, Oscar Niemeyer. Here important
exhibitions, trade fairs and other events regularly take place.
If You Have Time
Offshore Islands: Just offshore
is a string of small islands. the largest, known as the Island of
Palm Trees or Rabbit's Island, is now a nature reserve for green
turtles and rare birds. Declared a protected area by UNESCO in 1992,
camping, fire building or depredation is forbidden. This island
also holds Roman and Crusader remains.
Qalamoun, south of Tripoli,
is known for its brass industry. The roadside is lined with small
workshops and showrooms where brass bowls, candlesticks and other
objects are hammered out in the old tradition.
Notes for Visitors- A tourism information
Office is located on Abdel Hamid Karami Square.- Wear comfortable
sturdy shoes for walking around the old town and the souks. Women
should be prepared with head scarves if they wish to visit mosques.
http://www.lebanon-fair.com/Tripoli.htm
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